Kinelarty: document from Petty's survey of 1655

Map from Petty's survey 1655

Cranog on Lough Henney

COUNTY  DOWN  IRELAND

Boundaries

North:                        Baileysmill;

South:                      Dundrum Bay;

East:                         Kilmore (near Crossgar);

West:                       Slieve Croob (near Dromara).

THE TEMPLE

An Tiomphal  - the big church

Map Ref - OS. 9J.356.606: Carricknaveagh Townland.


LOUGH HENNEY

Map Ref - OS. 9J.347.584: Bresagh Townland.

This is the Northernmost point of Kinelarty (McCartan country).  Evidence of early defensive ramparts and forts are to be found on surrounding drumlins.
A Norman helmet and a bronze cauldron were discovered on the cranog (artificial island) near the west shore.   The helmet is dated 13-14th century and is identical to one carved in stone on the walls of Kilsorrel abbey in county Kilkenny. These, and other multi-period artefacts, are on display in the Ulster Museum. Further evidence of the strategic importance of this area, in our early history,  is well documented in the National Library and other archives.

CORGAGHCREEVY Townland

Corcaig Creevagh - the swamp with hill

Map Ref - OS. 9J.335.585:

CREEVYTENNANT Townland

Craobh an Teannail - the ceremonial tree

Map Ref - OS. 9J.365.565: Creevytennant Townland.
Leaders of the McCartans held both these townlands before  the Cromwellian settlements of the seventeenth century.  Simmington in his book 'Transportations to Connaught',   recorded  Donal McCartan being transported from here in 1650 to the barony of Kilmaine on the Galway/Mayo border.  Descendants can be found there   today.

MAGHERAKNOCK Fort

Machaire Cnoc - the plain with a hill.

Map Ref - OS. 9J. 345.559: Magherknock Townland.
This is a pear-shaped earthwork of about two acres and 310 ft long.  Perched on the summit of a steep-sided drumlin rising to almost 500 ft, this defensive structure was of strategic importance in olden days. A single edged iron sword with a bone handle was found inside this fort and dates from the tenth century.  Documents in Irish and English archives give evidence of  stout defensive measures  here till the mid-seventeenth century.   Cranogs occur in several of the eight loughs located just north of Magheraknock.
In 1617 Sir Francis Annesley, afterwards Baron of Mountnorris, and Viscount Valentia gained possession of Magheraknock  and nearby Corgacreevy from Phelim Mc Cartan.
In a nearby field are the remains of Betsy Grey - the heroine and legend of 1798.

KILLYGONEY Court Grave

Coille Na Gconai - the wood of the rabbits

Map Ref - OS. 9J.377.545: Glassdrummond Townland.

This is a multi-period site which had puzzled archaeologists for many years. Remnants of an ancient court tomb are to be found.   Much of the local folklore eminates from Killygoney where a panoramic view of the countryside makes the walk up the narrow lane worthwhile. This lane was once part of a roadway guiding wayfarers from the north towards Kilmore and Downpatrick. After the Battle of Ballynahinch in 1798 many of the casulties were buried here. Stones mark some of the graves. This site was an ancient territorial boundary mark and of great importance during the McCartan era.

BALLYNAHINCH Town

Baile Na Hinse - the townland of the flooded meadow

Map Ref - OS.9J.374.524:
A plantation town founded by Sir George Rawdon after the wars of 1641. Confirmation of title to the manor was granted to the Rawdon family by Charles II. It was inherited by the Earl of Moira, a descendant of Sir George. In 1798, after success at Saintfield,  the United Irishmen took a stand here and held the town. They were eventually driven from the town after a bloody encounter.

MONTALTO House and Estate

Map Ref - OS.9J.365.515: Ballymaglave North Townland.
One of the few residences noted on William Petty's maps of 1654 can be pinpointed to the site  where Montalto House now stands. The Inquisitions of Ulster 1630 and other sources suggest this was once the abode of Phelim Mc Cartan. When the present house was built is not known but the plasterwork dates from around 1760. The first of the Rawdon line to make Montalto his permanent home was the Fourth Baronet John, born 1720. James Moor Johnston described him as: 'a great botanist and planter and improver, who had exotic plants from all parts of the world in his hot and green houses at Moira, which he brought to Montalto when he removed from Moira there'. The estate has been successively owned by the Rawdons, the Earls of Moira (descendants of the Rawdons), the Kers, and in this century the Clanwilliams.
In 1677 Lettice Aston, a daughter of Sir William Brownlow and Elinor O' Doherty, succeeded in a law suite against Sir William Petty and Sir George Rawdon. She claimed that Phelim McCartan, the father of her first husband Patrick McCartan, had settled upon her an annuity of £120 chargeable on these lands.  The outcome was determined in her favour.
Edenavadda Hill, which is part adjacent to the main gates, is where the United Irishmen made their stand, during the battle of Ballynahinch (1798). Defensive trenches from this encounter are still clearly visible.

MAGHERADROOL Church and Graveyard

Machaire Eadar Ghabhal - the plain between two forks

Map Ref - OS.9J.378.513:  Magheradrool Townland.
This building is fifteenth century and figured prominently on Petty's parish and baronial maps (1654). There are records of an earlier church on this site. In 1609 the McCartans and a branch of the Mc Guinnesses (owners of the iron works at Kilmore), remodelled existing building. Eventually the reformers laid claim to the site.  The church was in use until 1775.
The graveyard  was a burial ground of the McCartans - especially in the pre-Reformation era.  The only McCartan headstone remaining  is that of James McCartan of Burren townland (near Dromara).   He died in 1897 aged 84.   Bishop Theophilus McCartan bequeathed his 'second best suit of clothes to Arthur McCartan of Burin'(will 1777).

 MAGHERATIMPANY

Mach-aire-ratha-tiompanach - the plain of the fort of the hillocks.

Map Ref - OS.9J.375.485: Magheratimpany Townland.
Colin Johnston Robb, an historian of note and lifetime resident of Magheratimpany, once wrote in reference to this townland: 'The Mc Cartans had a stone castle built there which stood in a field to the south-west of Timpany House'.     Although nothing remains of the building, some stones have been preserved in the gable of Timpany House. The archives record that Philemon McCartan occupied these surrounds in 1605.   Lord Edward Cromwell gained title to Magheratimpany and surrounding lands in the same year.

LOUGHINISLAND Ancient Church Site

Lough an Oilean - the lough with the island

Map Ref - OS.9J.424.456: Tievenadarragh Townland.
Three churches grouped on a natural island in Loughinisland lake which can be approached by a modern causeway. This place and its church appear in medieval sources under the name Lerkes or Lyrge. This site is an ancient monument in State charge.

The Middle Church
This one is the oldest and probably thirteenth century. It is a rectangular gabled structure 33ft by 20ft built of course rubble with rough squared quoins. These walls are 4ft thick in places. Some gables have fallen and are now standing to an average height of around 10ft. At the south-east  angle is a small wall-cupboard.

The North Church
The north church is 15th or 16th century and was in use until dismantled in 1720. The roofing material was removed for re-use in the Church of Ireland in Seaforde. It is a rectangular gabled structure measuring 60ft by 25ft internally built of coursed split-stone rubble with semi-wrought quoins with walls of an average thickness around 3ft. In the south wall are two small cupboards.

The Church known as McCartan's Chapel

The most southerly of the three ruins is McCartan's chapel. It is a rectangular gabled structure around 23ft by 15ft internally, with walls around 3ft of thickness, built of split-stone rubble with limestone quoins and dressings. The east window is of two pointed, chamfered lights, with mullion now removed. The west door has a semi-circular head rising from moulded imposts with square architrave framing the arch. The spandrels are panelled and bear the initials PMC with the date 1636. This commemorates Patrick McCartan who died in that year. His wife Lettice, daughter of Sir William Brownlow, fought a law suite with Sir William Petty and Sir George Rawdon. His son, also Patrick, took an active part in the wars of 1642. Set into the wall above the doorway is a stone effigy of a human head. This antiquity probably predates the church. On the floor of this building is a recumbent stone which mentions four prominent members of the McCartan family. On the east side this weather- damaged stone reads:
'This stone records the death of The Reverend Theophilus McCartan. The R.C. Bishop of Down and Connor and late P.P. of Loughinisland who departed this life on the... Dec 1778 aged 78 years'.

On the other end of the stone and reverse:
'Here lies the body of John McCartan then McCartan of Kinelarty who dep. this life 26 day of Sept 1736 aged 96 years. Phelomey who departed this life the 27 day of June 1761 aged 82 years. Dominick who departed 1772 aged 78 years'.

For 600 years this was the main  burying ground of the McCartan chieftains.  Interestingly the old church at Tullynakill near Mahee Island has an identical doorway  with 1639 inscribed. 
On the opposite side of the lake a large typically formed drumlin dominates the landscape. This prominence has been referred to in old maps as 'Castle Hill'. No trace remains of a castle but it is generally accepted that this was once the site of McCartan's principal seat. In 1642 Lord Conway's forces destroyed the castle. Roger Pike, one of his officers' left the following narrative:
'On Tuesday the l0th of May the army met together and camped in the middle of McCartan's woods ... there were at least 800 baggage horses laden with the spoil of the country, and I think I speak within compass if I say 3,000 cows, but as they came this day through the thickies of McCartan's woods... the rogues shot at them from behind trees and killed the lieutenant of Lord Conway's troop...On Wednesday the army marched through the rest of McCartan's woods with the aforesaid laden horses and cows, marching all together, but spreading the foot abroad in the woods to burn the cabins which were built there and to clear the woods before them'.

Pilson in his 1842 publication reckoned the cell of Saint Fynnian, patron saint of Movilla, was on the site of McCartan's chapel.
Nearby was the site of a famous 'hedge' school.     Neilson and Bishop McMullan received their early education here.   Patrick Lynch, the master, taught Irish to Thomas Russell, here and in Belfast.   Bunting, the well known collector, when compiling his Irish works and songs, sent Lynch out west to collect traditional music in Mayo and Galway.
The remnants of a once thriving flour-mill can be found at Nutgove on the western side of the Lough.  In a deed dated 12th May 1802, Patrick McCartan, baker of Downpatrick and Charles Coslett, sold 112 acres in Anadorn, commonly known as Nutgrove, to Robert Wardlow. This transaction included: 'the town grist toll of one sixteenth and the corn-mill at Nutgrove'.

ANADORN Dolmen

Ath na Dornan - The ford of Dorna

Map Ref - 9J.429.459: Anadorn Townland.

A rectangular chamber of three sidestones with its capstone slightly displaced. The 1802 account says this chamber was originally beneath a cairn some 60 feet across and had a lintelled approach-passage. The chamber contained ashes and a number of bones.  Thomas Russell, the United Irishman, used this stone as a platform for his gatherings in Loughinisland.

Placenames translations in this area suggest residences of princes or kings:
Rosconnor - the wood at Connors point;
Castlenavan - Eamhain's cashel;
Tareesh - the King's house;
Cahirvor - the big seat;
Rademan - the rath of Deman.
In the year 565 a king of the Ulidia, called Deman, was slain. In the life of Saint Pulcherius or Mochomog a fort is mentioned belonging to the King of Ulidia. Most scholars accept the location as being  nearby Rademon.  The annals for the year 976 record Scina Ua Deman abbot of Nendrum was burnt in his own house. The annal does not say it was by the vikings but this most likely.  These glimpses into the mists of early history reveal an early kingship.
In pre-historic times a large ditch existed between Anadorn and Dundrum Bay. This fortification was visible in parts around 1880 and its line was that of the boundary between Lecale and Kinelarty.
An interesting standing stone is concealed in thick hedges in a lane just beyond Anadorn dolmen.

This Anadorn complex includes many of the ingredients of what are considered to be inauguration sites elsewhere in Ireland - a dolmen, a standing stone, an association with water and trees.  This would lend some credence to the belief that early Irish kings were appointed during ceremonies involving the use of some or all of these monuments.

KILMORE  Site of Ancient Church and Graveyard

Cill Mor Morean - the big church of Morean

Map Ref - OS.9J.439.512: Carnacally Townland.

Kilmore was  at one time the most important ecclesiastical site in Kinelarty.  On Petty's maps of 1654 it was referred to as the parish church of KilmoreMorean.  One of the bishops of Nendrum, now called Mahee Island, was named Morean.  He died in the year 800.  The placename suggests he may have been the founder of this church.  The townland of Ballymorean, near the old Tullynakill church, also preserves his name.

The site is an oval shaped graveyard enclosed by a stone bank which is about 1m high all round and about 3m wide.  The central area is raised about 3m and considerably smaller in circumference than the enclosure.  A stone-lined  well, protected by a small dry-stone shelter, which is 1m high and  0.75m high square internally, is situated west of centre.   This structure is comparable to holy wells found in many early sites throughout Ireland.  Pattern days associated with local saints are still observed  in similar sites througout Ireland.

This pre-Norman site and surrounds  reveal evidence of ancient Irish traditions.  The early history of the  McCartans had many   associations with the parish of KilmoreMorean and some of their earliest chieftains are probably interred here.

FARANFAD

Faran fad - the long land

Map Ref - OS.9J.447.485: Faranfad Townland.

Patrick Bellew, whose seat was at Knock abbey, Thomastown, County Louth, spent his last days here, in the care of Phelim McCartan, who was married to the former's niece, Mary Fleming.  Phelim and Mary inherited the Bellew estates in Thomastown, County  Louth and Mountbellew, County Galway.   In his will of 1729, Patrick Bellew, left provision for his remains to be interred in Loughinisland. 

THE PIPER'S Forth

Map Ref - 0S.9J.434.434: Faranfad Townland.
A mound on the summit of a drumlin, it is 10ft high and 70ft in diameter on top. The mound is enclosed by a wet ditch of unknown depth. The greater part of the top is occupied by a depression 45-50ft across and 6ft deep. A trial-excavation has shown that the mound had been piled-up over a pre-Norman occupation layer productive of pottery of souterrain type. At a slightly higher level the floor of the hollow had been cobbled. Pottery found here of twelfth - early thirteenth century character showed the occupation of the site at this time. The peripheral bank had supported a light timber pallisade of 4 in posts spaced at intervals of about 2ft. The mound may be of native Irish construction.

SEAFORDE Village

Naghan (original name) - the little ford

Map Ref - OS.419.406: Naghan Townland.
The six almshouses in Seaforde were built in 1825 by Matthew Forde.  Each house was endowed with £60 per annum.  This charitable bequest was  in accordance with the wishes of his late wife Mary Ann Savage.  The adjoining courthouse, now converted into a residence, was built at the same time.  A tree-lined avenue leads to the Church of Ireland parish church.  Inscriptions on the vaults and gravestones make interesting reading.  Families such as the Fordes and Blackwoods have been associated with the area from the seventeenth century.

SEAFORDE Estate

Map Ref - OS.9J.405.434: Naghan Townland.
The Seaforde estate is part of the property purchased by the Fordes from the Cromwell family in 1626 for £8000. Lord Edward Cromwell had previously acquired these lands from the McCartans in 1605. Animosities related to land ownership caused much disharmony here during the seventeenth century.  Marriages were often used to encourage neighbourliness.    There were two interesting marriages between the Fordes and the McCartans.  In 1621 Eleanor McCartan married Matthew Forde, the proprietor of the estate. In another marrage in 1680  John McCartan married  Bridget Forde, daughter of Luke Forde, Coolgreaney, County Wexford.
The Forde family held several major estates throughout Ireland. Before coming to Seaforde their main estate was in Ballyfad, Coolgreaney, County Wexford. In 1875 the Rev William Forde sold the Wexford estate to the Brooke family. Many of the workers on the Coolgreaney estate moved north with their landlord and were resettled adjacent to Seaforde. Surnames on gravestones in Kilninor cemetery,near Coolgreaney, are akin to many presently in the Seaforde area.

During the big wind of 11 January 1838, some 60,000 trees were uprooted in Seaforde demesne.

On the roadside near Inch, Gorey, County Wexford stands an obelisk to commemorate the life of Anthony Perry, the United Irishman. He was married to Eliza Forde, daughter of Andrew Forde of Ballyfad, and played a prominent role during the rebellion. Anthony Perry's family hailed from the Seaforde/Clough area.

CLOUGH

Clough magheri cath - Stoney field of the battle

Map Ref - OS.9J.409.401: Clough Townland.
When exactly the McCartans lost their lands in the Clough area has not been ascertained. In 1612 Thomas Fitzmaurice, 18th Earl of Lixnaw, County Kerry, received a grant of the townlands of Clough, Craigduff, Knocksticken, Cloughran and Ardilea.
In 1881 the population of Clough was 236 and there has not been much change since. At the highest point in the village there is a Danish fort containing the ruins of a square castle.
A deed poll dated,19 January 1765, between William McCartan, of Clough and John Potter, of Downpatrick, records the  sale of premises in Clough - ref 236/182/154119. Bishop Theophilus Mc Cartan, in his will of 1777, mentions his 'trusty and good friend, John Potter, of Downpatrick'.
In 1948 the antlers of a giant Irish elk were found nearby in the townland of Knocksticken. They measured 8 ft across and were found in the farm of Thomas Kennedy. Later they came into the possession of David Kerr. Several similar finds have been made throughout  mid-Down.
A Church of Ireland academical institution with seminary, presided over by the Rev Skeffington Thompson, curate of Loughinisland, was founded in Clough around 1855.
This was the era when Hugh Moffet, a highly distinguished member of the Irish Bar, lived in Clough.  He published a translation of Sallust and some lay sermons, one of which, 'A Warning to the Young', obtained great popularity in its time.

MOUNT PANTHER Mansion

Map Ref - OS9J.405.385: Cloughram Townland.
This mansion, built in 1770, has cellars and was once three stories high. Some seventeenth century documents suggest a McCartan branch once resided on this site.
Mrs Delaney's recently published diaries give a good insight into life here during the eighteenth century. Her husband was Dean of Down and moved in the circle of Dean Jonathon Swift. Dr Delaney's first wife was Margaret Tennyson, from Knock Abbey, Thomastown, County Louth. Knock Abbey also had McCartan connections.  In a will dated 1729 Patrick Bellew  beqeathed his interest in this estate to Philemon McCartan and his wife Mary (Fleming).

DUNDRUM Village

Dun Droma - the fort of the ridge

Map Ref - OS.9J.405.366: Dundrum Townland.
Dundrum was once  a station on the Belfast and County Down railway and also a seaport of importance.  The remains of the castle are still extensive and can be seen to great advantage from the northeastern approach.

DUNDRUM Castle

Map Ref - OS.9J.405.371: Dundrum Townland.
 The castle occupies a magnificent situation and dominates the surrounding country and sea. Sited on the west shore of Dundrum Inner Bay, it commands a fine natural harbour which offered penetration inland especially to the fertile lands of Kinelarty and Lecale. The strategic importance was recognised by the builders of the original early Christian fort and the Anglo-Norman castle. According to O' Curry, Manners and Customs of the Ancient Irish vol 3, Dundrum Castle occupies the site of Dun Ruhraire (Ruray's Fort), - celebrated as the scene of the Feast of Bricrind. This was Bricrind Nemhthenga or Brierind of the poisioned tongue. He was a contemporary of Connor Mac Nessa and the Knights of the Red Branch, each of whom often felt and always feared the bitter tongue.
In the twelfth century John De Courcy built part of the existing building to provide for his Knight Templars.
The McCartans held Dundrum castle for about four years in the early 1600's.  Along with the surrounding lands  it became forfeit to Lord Cromwell of Lecale in 1607.

SLIDDERYFORD Dolmen

Map Ref - OS.9J.566.501: Wateresk Townland.
A tripod dolmen consisting of a massive granite capstone supported on three uprights. This relict marks the southwestern boundary of Kinelarty.

KILMEGAN  Parish Church

Map Ref - OS.9J.382.371: Moneyland Townland.
This church occupies the site of multi-period, pre-Reformation churches. Records of the present parish and building,  prior to 1822, are missing owing to a lawsuit between the Rev Henry Mc Dowell Johnstone, of Ballywillwill and the Rev John Forbes Close, of Kilkeel, in connection with the right of impropriation of the parish. Many church books were sent to Dublin to be produced in evidence and never returned.
Local tradition states that a great old warrior was interred inside the masonry of the tower.
 McCartan gravestones, from families formerly resident in Moneylane and Tullymore, are to be found here.

MAGHERA Church and Round Tower

Map Ref - OS.9J. 372.341: Carnacavill Townland.

This thirteenth century church stands within a circular walled enclosure and seems to have been built within a small circular earthwork. The ruin of a Round Tower, surviving to a height of 18 ft, stands 100 yds northwest  of the old church. It was reduced to a stump during a gale in 1710.
Saint  Donard established a community here in the sixth century. The monastery was raided many times by the Vikings.  Many historians believe Maghera to have been the site of an ancient bardic school. These lands had once been endowed to the church by the McCartans. In his history of the diocese O' Laverty quotes Father McCana, from his Irish intinery:
'One thing I can state, that it, as well as many other sacred places, was endowed with no inconsiderable estates, by the chiefs of the Mc Artan family, who formerly enjoyed extensive rule in these parts, and I may add, that I know of no other nobles who were more generous to the Church of God, than the lords of that ancient family, for it is an acknowledged fact that they built all the churches in the territories of Ivechia (Iveagh) and Kinnalfagartay (Kinelarty) and endowed them with the choicest lands'.
Many eighteenth century McCartan gravestone inscriptions which mention Tullymore, Burren and Ballyginney surround the church ruins. Norman grave slabs, from the De Courcey era, are also to be seen. A thirteenth century brooch, with the Knights Templar insignia, was discovered on this site in 1846.
In 1830 Daniel O' Connell lodged nearby whilst defending a client at Downpatrick court. 

BRYANSFORD Village

Map Ref - OS.9J.352.334: Aghacullion Townland.
Location: 2 miles inland from Newcastle.
Situated picturesquely on the side of a sheltered hill, Bryansford has been owned by the Roden family for many generations. Tullymore Park is entered from the village.

BRYANSFORD Graveyard

Map Ref - OS.9J.352.334: Ballyhafrey Townland.
Many  interesting McCartan gravestones, with Irish inscriptions, are to be found here. Here lies the disposessed and their descendants. Their ancestors were compelled to leave the fertile soils of Kinelarty to an existence on the stoney and hilly ground of Burrenreagh, Burrenban, Aughnacullion, Burren and Ballyhalfrey. Amongst their illustrious descendants was Father Owen McCartan, P.P., author and champion for tenant rights. He was interred alongside his last parish church in Larne, County Antrim.

THE MOURNE MOUNTAINS
Throughout the fields of Mourne dry-stone walls are in abundance. Techniques and styles, used by the builders, are often named after families. The 'McCartan walls' are easily identified and are often admired for their unique craftmanship.
On the 8 of May 1642 thirty soldiers and fifteen horses from Chichester's troop perished in the extreme cold of a freak storm in nearby Slievenaman.  

KILCOO  Church and Graveyard

Kill Chua - the church of Chua

Map Ref - OS.9J.283.332: Moyad Townland.
As with Bryansford, Kilcoo has many McCartan graves. Dromena, Foffany, Burrenreagh, Burrenbann, Castlewellan, Ballydrummond, Moneyscalp and Ballymoney townlands figure prominently on their headstones. The local school registers have been preserved by the Public Record Office in Belfast.  Entries dating back to the formation of the National Schools in 1830 are accessible.  The  McCartan surname is dominant. In recent years many north American McCartans, with Kilcoo origin,  have been tracing their roots.   Their ancestors left Kilcoo for employment in the mining industry in Ohio and surrounding states.
The Kilcoo to Bryansford area had the greatest concentration of the McCartan surname according to Griffith's valuation 1870.
Around 1840 a Mrs McCartan from Kilcoo related the following story to J W Hanna, solicitor and historian. She was born in 1760:
 'During the wars in Ireland, all the people in this part of the country went to the south of Ireland and the Rev Neal McAvoy who was parish priest of Kilcoo went along with them to Ossory, till the peace was made. When he came back, he got his parish and his house and he was buried himself and his uncle in Kilcoo'. Her uncle was John McAvoy who had been parish priest in 1670. Documents in British archives refer to Barnabas Fitzpatrick, Baron of Ossory and his 'safe haven for papists'. The Fitzpatrick castle in Borris in Ossory, County  Laois was where the Kilcoo congregation received shelter. This castle has recently been opened to the public.

 DRUMENA Cashel

Map Ref - OS.9J.311.340:  Drumena Townland.

This cashel with souterrain is on the northeast slope of the mountain east of Lough Island Reavy. The walls are built of drystone and around 10 ft thick. The souterrain is in the southeast corner of the enclosure, T-shaped in plan and constructed of dry-stone masonry and roofed with stone lintels. The main passage is about 7ft high and aligned northeast/southwest.

BURRENBRIDGE

Map Ref - OS.9J.331.355: Burrenreagh Townland.

On the righthand side at Burrenbridge is O' Hare's shop and grain store. This shop was originally a pub owned by a McCartan family. Sons and daughters reared here played an important role in religious communities here and abroad.  The shop records, preserved from the last century, indicate at least eight McCartan families in this neighbourhood.

CASTLEWELLAN Town
Caislean Uidihilin - Castle of Hugolin

Map Ref - OS.9J.342.363:
Castlewellan is a former plantation town founded by the Annesley family. This town consists of two squares and a connecting street. The upper square is central with a market-house containing both tower and clock.  From here the Annesley domesne, with its magnficent lake and trees, can be approached. McCartan families played an active part in the business life of this town over the years. In 1900, amongst the bearers of the name were four publicans, a shipping agent, ironmonger, baker, quarry owners, stonemasons, fowl dealers and hackney owners.

A Dublin attorney came to Castlewellan once in search of evidence for a case pending in a Galway courtroom.
On 11 March 1805, James Smyth, an attorney, posted the following letter in Castlewellan:
'Dear Sir
It is now twelve 0' clock and no person met me here. I must therefore proceed on my journey so as to get in before the mail to Newry. I must earnestly entreat you to get some person about Drumnacoyle that was acquainted with Philemon McCartan, Ursula Stafford his daughter and William Stafford and who can prove their different handwritings, their religion and if possible the time of Philemon's death. Give me notice of this and I will send you the letter I already shewed you. I am with the greatest esteem, your very humble servant
Castlewellan 11th March 1805 James Smyth'.

The very next day James Smyth posted another letter from Newry:
Dear Sir
After putting my letter into the office at Castlewellan and while I was standing in the street an old woman came up to me - (having heard of the enquiry that I was making ) and told me that the stewart of Mr Foord was at Drumnacoyle with her and others, particularly with her mother and some followers of the McCartans, but that she did not then see any of the persons in the market - I suppose they did not answer his queries, I asked her about Christian. She told me he lived at Rathfriland and I turned my chaise to that place where I found him 85 years of age and he clearly proved the religion and handwriting of all and to a day the death of Mr McCartan which squares with Mrs Stafford's letter so that if he lives to the assizes and can go he will fill the place of many. He is miserably poor tho he had a rich father. He seemed ready in hope I believe of getting something.
I am your very obedient servant James Smyth
Newry 12th March 1805'.

Both letters were addressed to Andrew Savage of Portaferry from his attorney. Andrew Savage and Christopher Bellew, a native of county Galway, joined forces to fight  a long legal battle for possession of two estates - one in Mountbellew, County Galway and the other being Knock Abbey, Thomastown, Co Louth. Philemon McCartan and his wife Mary inherited both these properties from Patrick Bellew around 1730.

DOLLY'S Brae

Map Ref - OS.9J.309.373: Ballymaginaghy Townland.

This entire area always had a strong association with the McCartans. The skirmish of Dolly's Brae occurred on this road.
Dolly's Brae and 1849
Nicholas Crickard, a native of this area, recorded this event and preceding occurrences in his ballad.

McCartans, presently resident in County Leitrim, can trace their origin to here. Several families were compelled to flee during unrest in 1691. Fenagh graveyard, near Mohill, has many McCartan headstones.

In 1742 Harry Jackson surveyed the Annesley estate. An interesting map from this survey outlines in detail the tenants and their lands in this area as follows:
Bryan McCartan, Ballymagreehan - 87 acres
Arthur McCartan, Brackaderry - 62 acres
Thomas McCartan, Clarkhill - 75 acres
Mrs McCartan, Lurgan Castlewellan - 41acres

LEITRIM  Village and Graveyard

Map Ref - OS.9J.305.405: Leitrim Townland.
For many generations the village pub and shop here was in the ownership of a McCartan family. The local graveyard holds the graves of McCartan families from the townlands of Ballymaginaghy, Ballydrummond, Ballymagreehan, Clarkhill, Backaderry, Mageramayo, Horse Shoe and Castlewellan.

CLANVARAGHAN

Cluain Bearacain - the meadow of the wee heifer

Map Ref - OS.9J.335.405: Clanvaraghan Townland.
 
Clanvaraghan House.
 The parliamentary census of 1766 gives the occupants, as Dominck McCartan and his wife Ann O' Neill, of Ballymoney, in the parish of Kilcoo. Dominick and Ann had two sons, one called John, and three daughters, three grandchildren and seven servants.
A deed of 1735 gives Dominick as tenant in Clanvaraghan to Richard Johnston for a yearly rent of £30.
In 1762 Dominick and Bishop Theophilus were signatories and subscribed £5 each to the cost of translating and publishing in Irish from Latin 'The Imitation of Christ', by Thomas A Kempis.
Dominick was a brother of Phelomy, and a son of John.  John was appointed commissioner for raising money for the Jacobites in County Down.  Dominick was therefore grandson to Patrick McCartan who fought with Owen Roe O' Neill at the Battle of Benburb. Dominick died in 1772 and was interred in McCartan's chapel in Loughinisland.

 
BALLYWILLWILL  House
Baile Claine Mic Ghiolla Maoil - the townland of the disciple of Michael

Map Ref - OS.9J.354.409: Ballywillwill Townland.

Built in 1815 by Rev George Henry McDowell Johnstone, this house, as with Mount Panther, was built on the site once occupied by a branch of the Mc Cartans. Numerous documents in the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland, Kings Inn, and the National Library, associate Philomy McCartan, Dominick McCartan and Ursula McCartan with this area between 1730 and 1800.
The original main entrance to Ballywillwill House was in the townland of Drumnacoyle. The stone for the gate pillars was originally cut for the General Post Office building in O' Connell Street Dublin and for some reason never used there.    These granite blocks still stand erect on the road between Annesborough and Drumnacoyle.
In the grounds of Ballywillwill House are two well preserved raths.

BALLWILLWILL Rath 1

Map Ref - 0S.9J.352.415: Ballywillwill Townland.
An oval rath 100ft by 85ft from crest to crest of the inner bank, with an outer bank surviving outside the ditch on the west and north sides only.  The gap on the south bank was shown by excavation to be the original entrance where holes were found which had held the wooden posts or gate.  A souterrain was discovered on this site approximately 36ft long, constructed with granite boulder walling and the roof originally stone lintelled.  There were few finds except for much souterrain pottery.

BALLYWILLWILL Rath 2

Map Ref OS.9J.355.415: Ballywillwill Townland.

A large oval rath, 400 yds east of rath 1 with well preserved defences of two almost equally large banks separated by an originally deep sided ditch.   It is 80ft by 125ft from crest to crest of the inner bank.   The entrance lies on the north/east.  Excavations in 1951 reveal both banks had been rivetted with boulders.  Pottery, though similar in fabric to that in rath 1 differed considerably in form.

DRUMNACOYLE Townland

Drumna Coille - the woody ridge
Map Ref - OS.9J.349.436: Drumnacoyle Townland.
The Franciscans of Downpatrick took refuge in Drumnacoyle around 1630. The last member of the community died around 1800.   According to reliable tradition the altar table from the Franciscan monastery in Drumnacoyle formerly marked the grave of local writer Bernard McAvoy - a schoolmaster in nearby Drumaroad.  This stone was  removed from the graveyard and placed inside Drumaroad church in 1935.

DRUMAROAD Village

Dromorode alias Magherdcastlederg Drom ar rod - the road of the stag's hill
Map Ref - OS.9J.368.437: Drumaroad Townland.
 The altar table from the Franciscan monastery in Drumnacoyle is on display inside the church.
The 'big wind' of 11 January 1838 completely destroyed this place of worship.
Drumaroad is the place from whence John McCartan and his son Anthony fled after the Battle of the Boyne. They both  joined the French army and had impressive serviced records.    The ancestry of France's former president, De Gaulle, can be traced to these 'Wild Geese'.

WHITE FORT Cashel

Map Ref - OS.9J.365.440: Drumaroad Townland.
Stone built cashel, roughly pearshaped and about 150ft across the main diameters and occupying an isolated rock summit. The enclosing wall, now much reduced and scattered, is around 10ft thick with a possible entrance on the south side. A house site slightly east of the centre is sheltered from the west by a rock outcrop.  An excavation in 1953 found this dwelling to be of two periods. The first house was approximately 20ft square, with a few large postholes indicating a timber superstructure on the thick deposit of charcoal.   Over the floor was an iron plough coulter. As reconstructed, the second house was square in plan with slightly curved sides, measuring internally 18ft north/south and 17ft east-west, with stone paved floor and central hearth. The walls were of clay 5ft thick; centrally placed on the south with an entrance. The roof was supported by four free-standing posts. The stone-lined sockets were about 10ft apart and disposed to form a square.  It is suggested that these posts supported a clearstorey above the central hearth. To the north of the house was an excavation, identified as an unfinished souterrain; to the southeast was a paved area with rectangular stone-built hearth. Finds of pottery and some small objects indicate an occupancy of the cashel in the tenth century.


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DIRECTIONS

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Our journey through Kinelarty  commences at The Temple crossroads.  

This location is on the main Belfast/Newcastle road - approximately half way between Carryduff roundabout and the town of Ballynahinch.

Leaving The Temple proceed on the main road towards Ballynahinch  and take the second road on the right (Bresagh Road). Go first left (Lough Road).  Picturesque Lough Henney will come into view on your right-hand side.

Beyond Lough Henney turn right (Low Road) and continue a mile or so to Corgaghcreevy - on the old Ballynahinch/Lisburn road.  Turn left and after a short distance you will enter the townland of Creevytenant.

Beyond Creevytenant the road enters Magheraknock townland.  Turn left  beyond Magheraknock school into Magheraknock Road and stop.  Magheraknock fort is on the prominence to the left, and the old mill, which was marked on seventeenth century maps, is to the right.

Proceed east down the Magheraknock Road towards the   Belfast/Ballynahinch road. At the main road turn right towards Ballynahinch. Beyond the turnoff for Saintfield and adjacent to Carlisle's filling station, turn left into the narrow Moss Road. About a half-mile on the left is a lane leading to the  ancient site of Killygoney. Old pine trees, visible for miles around, mark  the location of the stone structure of one of the most ancient sites in the county.

Return to the main road, turn left and proceed to the town of Ballynahinch.

Turn right at the Dromore Road turnoff from  Main Street and stop at the entrance to Montalto House estate, on the left.

Turn around and return  to the Main Street,then turn right towards Newcastle at the T- junction.   Beyond the  suburbs, proceed  past the old  cornmill and take a left turn opposite the  Millbrook Lodge Hotel into Crabtree Road.  Take an immediate right and turn up the narrow uphill road. At the NIES relay station on the left halt and proceed down the narrow lane. It is you will find the ancient church and graveyard of Magheradrool.

Return to the main Newcastle/Ballynahinch road.  Before the descent a look northwards will unfold a magnifient view, with Ednavaddy Hill dominating the landscape. Turn left at the main road and the first right into Ballymaglave Road.  A left down Cherryhill Road and a right turn into Broomhill Road leads to the townland of Magheratimpany - a place with an abundance of McCartan tradition.

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Turn back at Timpany House, and a left, then right will bring you to the main road again just beyond Drumaness.  Turn right and continue for about a mile towards Newcastle.  You will pass Tievedarragh forest on the left.  At Brennans filling station turn left and follow the signposts to Loughinisland churches.

On leaving the insular churches,  turn right and at the next junction go right again. This road runs close to the northern shore of the lough.  A cairn belonging to Anadorn dolmen  once covered the greater part of the crossroads.  Surviving sidestones and capstones are to be found on the shore-side.

At Anadorn dolmen cross-roads take the Crossgar road.  Cross over the Ballynahinch/Downpatrick road and turn left just before the village of Kilmore. Travel a few hundred yards on this road. and you will find the  site of Kilmore's ancient church and graveyard.

Kilmore is the eastern boundary of the barony of Kinelarty.

On leaving Kilmore retrace your steps back to Anadorn dolmen.  Turn left at the dolmen, continue through the hamlet of Annadorn.   Beyond Anadorn  turn right at the crossroads.  This road leads to the villlage of Seaforde.  On the way you pass through the townland of Faranfad.

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The Piper's Forth sits on a prominence to the right.

Continue straight on to the main Belfast/Newcastle road again, at the village of Seaforde.

From Seaforde take the main road towards Newcastle. After one mile you will enter the village of Clough.

Follow the main road towards Newcastle.  Just beyond Clough  the impressive derelict remains of Mount Panther  appear on the right.

Just beyond Mount Panther on the road towards Newcastle is the village of Dundrum.

Return to the main street in Dundrum, turn right towards Newcastle. On leaving this village take the road signposted to the right for Bryansford.  In a nearby field is Slidderyford dolmen.

Turn back toward Dundrum and take the second road on the left. Signposted from here are directions to the parish church of Kilmegan.

Turn around towards Dundrum and take a right at the first crossroads.  Follow this road to the village of Maghera where you will enter the adjoining barony of Upper Iveagh.  Go right at the junction in the village.   At the first crossroad, just beyond the village, turn left into Carrogs Road.  Here you will find the ancient church and Round Tower of Maghera.

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On leaving the church avenue turn right then left at the first crossroads into Carnacavill road. On reaching the main Newcastle/Castlewellan road, cross the main road into the Ballyhaffrey road  and proceed to the picturesque village of Bryansford.

Drive through the village of Bryansford.   One half mile beyond turn right at signpost for Kilcoo.   Stop at the carpark and admire a magnificent view of the Mourne mountains.

Continue on this undulating road for about three miles to the village of Kilcoo.

From Kilcoo village take the Castlewellan road.   On the mountain, just beyond the town is one of  Ireland's best preserved cashels.

Beyond the road to the cashel is Burrenbridge.   This small hamlet has a long associations with the McCartan name.

A few miles onwards is the town of Castlewellan.

Leaving Castlewellan   take the Banbridge road. After 2 miles  turn right into the  Magheramayo Road and follow the signs to the village of Leitrim.

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From Leitrim crossroads take the road to Clanavaraghan. Carrivmora mountain on the left and Slievenaslat on the right guard this road to our next port-of-call.

Leaving Clonvaraghan house we re-enter the Barony of Kinelarty again at the next townland of Ballywillwill.  The cement road opposite the junction is the present entrance to Ballywillwill House.

On exiting from the present entrance to Ballywillwill House, turn right then right again  to the townland of Drumnacoyle.  After half mile turn right at junction and then beyond McElroy's bar, go left again at another junction.   This road leads to the site of the monastery of Drumnacoyle.

Go back to the Castlewellan/Ballynahinch road and take a left turn towards Ballynahich.  The second road on the left leads to the village of Drumaroad.

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The lake at Loughinisland from Anadorn

Siteplan of Loughinisland churches

Castlehill from interior of McCartan's chapel

View from rear of McCartan's chapel

Site plan of Ballywillwill rath