With most small game it is easier to trap than to stalk
and kill, in a survival situation setting traps also leaves you with time
to attend to other duties like foraging or shelter building. The title of
this page represents the principals of trapping, your trap must effect to
either tangle, dangle, strangle or mangle your quarry. Putting up several
traps around your shelter/retreat gives you more than one opportunity at a
time to catch a meal, check all traps regularly to prevent escape and undue
suffering. Starting a routine of regularly doing the rounds of your traps
will provide you with a positive activity, however BE PATIENT, you will need
to study the habits of animals to site traps effectively more intelligent
creatres will initially be wary of anything new but will quickly come to accept
the presence of traps.....That's when they walk into them!
Disclaimer: Traps are presented for information purposes only, they are dangerous, some lethally so. Using them is also illegal in all likelyhood. Don't use them except in a survival situation. It's not big and it's not clever and I won't accept any responsibility for you getting your wrists smacked, or anything else.
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SPRING
SNARE:- Game running through the snare disengages the trigger
bar,and the prey is flung off the ground. Use on game trails or in gaps through
rocks or hedges. Cut a notch in triggerbar (a) to fit upright (b). Drive upright
into ground. Attach snare to trigger bar, then trigger bar to sapling.
BAITED
SNARE:- Construct as for spring snare but using the release
mechanism shown. The bait support should be only lightly driven into the ground
as it must fly away wity the snare.
LEG
SNARE :- Push a natural fork or two sticks tied together into
the ground. The line from a sapling is tied to a wooden toggle and the toggle
passed under the fork. When the game takes the bait, attatched to a seperate
stick, it falls away releasing the toggle which flies up taking the snare
and the game with it. Large versions are amongst the best snares or heavy
game.
PLATFORM
TRAP:- Site over a small depression on the game trail. Snares
on the platforms either side, when the platform is depressed the trigger is
released and the game held firmly by the leg. For smaller, lighter game use
the mechanism shown in (a), displacing either the bottom bar or the toggle
will trigger the trap.
FIGURE
4 DEADFALL :- A simple and effective deadfall trap, can be
made to any size. A horizontal bait bar is is balanced at right angles to
an upright with a lock bar, which supports a rock or other heavy weight pivoting
around the tip of the upright.
TRIPWIRE
DEADFALL :- A heavy log is suspended over a busy game trail,
trips the wire and pulls a retaining bar from under two short pegs secured
in a tree trunk. Keep the pegs as short as possible so that the bar will disengage
easily.
SPEAR
DEADFALL :- Same as tripwire deadfall but utilising rocks
to add weight and sharpened sticks to add trauma to the crushing blow.
SPRUNG
SPEAR TRAP :- This is a VERY dangerous trap, it should always
be constructed and approached from behind the spring of the trap, only attempt
if you are confident that your cordage and other materials are strong enough.
A springy shat with spear attached is suspended over a trail. A slip ring
made of SMOOTH material is attached to a trip wire and acts as a release mechanism.
A toggle (a) and short line to a fixed upright hold the sprung shaft in tension.
A further rod through the ring is tensed between the nearside of the sprung
shaft and the far face of the upright, securing until tripped.
BAITED
HOLE NOOSE :- This trap is very useful for scavengers, drive
4 sharpened sticks into the pit, through the edges. Lay a noose across them
attached to a peg outside the pit.
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Let me reiterate that these traps can kill, the diagrams are ONLY for informational use, to be applied in a situation where your life is in peril. I will not be held responsible for any damage you do yourself or others if you insist on making the darn things.